"Stains are more of a concern than wrinkles, and at MartiDerm, we have the formula that works before, during, and after their appearance."
Many people experience the consequences of living with stains on their face or body, affecting both skin health and self-esteem. That’s why MartiDerm, a dermocosmetic brand with extensive experience and knowledge in om vasta experiência e conhecimento em skin depigmentation,om vasta experiência e conhecimento em offers the formula to treat stains with the range Pigment Zero.
In order to delve deeper into this issue that concerns so many people, we spoke with Elisa Suñer, pharmacist and leader of the Scientific Research and Development department at MartiDerm for over 25 years, and now the Scientific Corporate Advisor of the MartiDerm Group.
- It’s not a minority problem. To what extent can stains affect people’s self-esteem and well-being?
Stains deeply affect people's self-esteem. In fact, it is a much more common reason for consultation in dermatological and aesthetic clinics than wrinkles or other dermatological issues. Uniform skin tone has always been desired by everyone.
That’s why decorative cosmetics, or makeup, are so widely used—visually, they give us the effect of having a skin tone that is uniform.
- When it comes to skin hyperpigmentation, what are the most common types?
Firstly, skin hyperpigmentation is the darkening of the skin, of a benign nature, often caused by an abnormally high amount of the pigment melanin, which leads to the appearance of dark spots, varying in size, also called hyperchromia.
There is a wide variety of types of hyperpigmentation. I will highlight the most common ones:
Firstly, ephelides or freckles, which appear or become more pronounced due to the sun. Similarly, lentigo, a small brownish spot that is likely to appear during childhood, can occur both in areas exposed to the sun and in those not exposed.
A variation of lentigo is solar or senile lentigo. It appears in areas exposed to the sun and is generally associated with actinic damage.
Melasma, a very common type of stain that affects the face, is hyperpigmentation caused by sunlight, aggravated by hormonal changes, such as during pregnancy (chloasma), or by the intake of certain medications.
Lastly, hyperchromia due to sensitization, which is typically dermatitis caused by the use of perfumes, medications, and post-inflammatory dermatitis, caused after inflammatory skin lesions such as acne, herpes, burns, and hair removal, among others.
- Sun radiation is the most common cause of these types of stains. What other factors contribute to the appearance of spots?
Indeed, there is an explanation for this: sunlight triggers the production of melanin, which is why people tan in the sun. Melanin acts as the skin's natural sunscreen, protecting it from harmful rays.
However, the sun leaves marks on the skin, and these become especially noticeable with aging. Additionally, young people are not exempt, as they can suffer from premature photoaging if exposed to excessive radiation without proper sun protection.
That’s why it’s very important to keep in mind the famous saying: "the skin has memory." It means that the skin accumulates damage from childhood to adulthood, so even if we were heavily exposed to the sun in childhood but not so much in adulthood, stains can still appear.
"The skin has memory; if a person was heavily exposed to the sun in their youth but not as much in adulthood, spots can still appear."
On the other hand, genetics also plays a role, as some spots appear more frequently on darker skin or in higher phototypes. Similarly, hormonal imbalance, which occurs during pregnancy or due to the use of contraceptives, can be another triggering factor.
We should not forget factors such as tobacco, pollution, diet, lack of sleep, stress... All of these make up the long list of factors that damage the skin and promote the appearance of spots. Currently, there is much talk about the exposome to comprehensively describe all these environmental exposures to which we are subjected.
- What are the most effective ingredients for protection against these factors?
There are numerous cosmetic ingredients with recognized and proven efficacy in treating skin hyperpigmentation. However, at MartiDerm, staying true to our DNA based on masterful formulation, we design useful combinations for each indication.
"We have a range of depigmenting products that act before, during, and after the appearance of a dark spot," highlighted the pharmacist.
In this case, the depigmenting approach is based on the combination of active ingredients that act at different levels to achieve a powerful and complementary comprehensive effect.
Those that act as prevention are antioxidants, such as vitamin C, ellagic acid, ferulic acid, and genistein, among others, which work on the molecules that activate the pigmentation process.
Other active ingredients work by inhibiting melanin synthesis in melanocytes and its transfer to keratinocytes. These include kojic acid, phytic acid, arbutin, and niacinamide, among others.
"Active ingredients such as vitamin C, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and retinoids are essential for reducing hyperpigmentation."
And finally, there are active ingredients that affect the expression of dark spots, reducing them on the surface (in size and intensity) through cellular renewers such as chemical exfoliants and retinoids. These include AHAs, salicylic acid, and retinoids.
In recent years, research on depigmenting treatments has advanced, and many dark spots have been linked to inflammatory mechanisms.
In this regard, tranexamic acid has proven to be a promising ingredient for melanin-related pigmentation (by inhibiting the inflammatory cascade) and vascular pigmentation. It is now a key ingredient in many DSP products from our Pigment Zero range.
- What would you recommend to someone interested in following a complete depigmentation routine?
I recommend all the products from the Pigment Zero range, as each one has its specific moment. However, a simple daily routine would consist of DSP-Bright ampoules, DSP-Creme SPF50+, and DSP-Renewal Cream. The effectiveness of these three dermatologically tested products has shown visible results from the first week, reducing visible spots by 73%. Additionally, this routine is recommended by 8 out of 10 consumers.
If the dark spots are localized and very pronounced, the routine can be complemented with DSP-Cover during the day and DSP-Mask at night, both applied specifically to the affected areas.
"I recommend the complete **Pigment Zero** range, consisting of three products that show visible results from the first week."
*Usage test under dermatological control of the routine with DSP-Bright, DSP-Cream SPF50+, and DSP-Renovation Cream. Representative images. Ref.: DC.351.36.087*
DPS-Bright
PVPR: 70,65€
Serum in ampoule format
This pack of 30 ampoules evens out skin tone and reduces and prevents the appearance of dark spots.
It is recommended to use in the morning after cleansing the skin and before applying moisturizer.
- Contains 5% Vitamin C-Tech
- DSP-TX Complex
DSP-Renewal Cream
PVPR: 45,05€
Night fluid emulsion
High-tolerance night cream with selective depigmenting actives that work directly on hyperpigmented areas of the skin.
- Naturally derived alpha hydroxy acids
- Genistein
DSP-Cream FPS 50+
PVPR: 38,80€
Depigmenting cream with sun protection
Cream with SPF 50+ that prevents the appearance of dark spots while protecting the skin from solar radiation. Its effectiveness is so high that DSP-Cream SPF 50+ reduces dark spots by up to 65%.
- FPS 50+
- Vitamin C
- Tranexamic acid
Not to forget, of course, the essential photoprotection that should always accompany the treatment, either within the depigmenting product itself or separately.
Within the Pigment Zero line, there are two products containing SPF 50+ for safe daytime use: one for larger areas, DSP-Cream SPF 50+, and another for localized areas, DSP-Cover Stick SPF 50+.
Finally, Elisa Suñer emphasized the importance of being consistent with the routine to achieve visible results—a formula that reduces dark spots and helps improve people's self-esteem.
Clinical Results:
*Usage test under dermatological control of the routine with **DSP-Bright, DSP-Cream SPF50+, and DSP-Renovation Cream**. Subjective evaluations. Ref.: DC.351.36.087
**Depigmenting efficacy under dermatological control and subjective evaluation. Ref.: 14910920.A.
The Companhia das Soluções is the agency responsible for communication & press office for MartiDerm.
